Saturday, March 17, 2007

On Mexico Time



For the first time visitor, the charm of San Miguel de Allende is not always evident. This is our second visit and we see and appreciate so much more about this special place.
There are no neon signs, fast food chains, billboards or traffic lights. Baroque 17th centure buildings line the ancient cobblestone streets of the town centerñ behind their massive and ornate hand carved doors are beautiful patios and palatial residences from a life style long gone. It´s like a step back in time and the pace is more what we remember from the 50s. In the light of early evening you almost expect to see an old lamplighter strolling along the streets adding a soft glow of gaslight to the already picturesque cityscape. Listen and you often hear the sound of a horse drawn carriage scurrying over the cobblestones. This town has gotten lost in time and it´s beautiful! That is the romance of San Miguel de Allende, but not all of it´s charm. The best way to get beneath the surface of this city is to go to the jardin (central plaza or square) and watch the morning unfold. The benches facing La Parroquia (parish church) are mostly claimed by those from the U.S. who are always willing to share their insight on San Miguel (many have been here for 10 or 20 years). Or you can discover everything on your own. As the vendors set up shop, and the morning light shines on the pink stone of the beauty of La Parroquia, the charm of San Miguel begins to reveal itself. You just have to take some time to drink it in. There is a great deal of English spoken here. About 6,000 Americans, Canadians and Europeans call San Miguel home. It´s much appreciated by the locals of you at least attempt to learn and use some words and phrases in Spanish. A little effort takes you far in understanding the sweet nature and polite culture of the local Mexican people. There are a variety of sosphiticated restaurants, numerous galleries filled with the works of international and local artists and craftsmen, lots of unique shops and comfortable accommodations ranging from a true colonial experience to modern resorts. So, you just need to put on a good pair of walking shoes and set our to explore and enjoy this beautiful place.

So, what are we doing here?
We love our little one bedroom casita which sits high above the city (we´re feeling like mountain goats tripping over the cobblestones into town) where we look out over the valley and hillsides covered with cactus and houses. The first photo above is of our casita and the second is the view from the rooftop) In the morning we´re awakened by the crow of nearby roosters and the distant clanging of church bells. If we´re not in town having dinner, we can enjoy a beautiful sunset and the awesome quiet of our little neighborhood - disturbed occasionally by the howling of a stray cat.
Without the distraction of radio or tv, we read, do crosswords and soduko and enjoy a game of cards )we´ve rediscovered casino and Rook=.
We attend Spanish classes for two hours each morning, have lunch in town, and meet at the school later for an extra curricular activity. This week we visited an orphanage which houses about forty boys - ages 6 months to 13 years. It´s a very nice facility on the outskirts of town, housed in a very old building and operated by Catholic nuns. The boys were playful and friendly with us and let us practice our Spanish with simple words. We felt sad leaving them and I wanted to adopt one but Doug kept me thinking in a more practical way and we made a donation instead. We´ve also taken Spanish cooking classes and salsa dance classes.
The rest of our afternoons are taken up with shopping for kitchen provisions (at least enough to have breakfast and happy hour at home)- then it´s time to do our homework. I´ve also found time to paint most days and have completed several silk scarves (I can see the Mexican influence in my art and find I use brighter colors). I also sold three scarves this week!
We´ve gotten together for lunch with friends Sharon and Mike Draper who live here in San Miguel. In fact, they just bought a house and moved in over the weekend. I met Sharon while taking art classes in Burgundy last year. It was great to get re-aquainted and to get to know Mike.
So, our days are full but quite relaxed and we find ourselves quite taken in my this charming and quaint place.
More later.
Rebecca

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